Sicilian versus Californian almonds, an ocean of differences

27/11/2020
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Between Sicilian almonds and Californian almonds there is just… an ocean of differences. Pesticides, artificial irrigation and mycotoxins on the other side of the world, native crops and traditional processing in Magna Graecia.

The higher cost of dried fruit made in Sicily expresses a series of values that it is good to know before making hasty choices. Brief remarks to follow.

Dried fruit, consumption and production in Italy

Dried fruitconsumption in Italy has actually doubled in the last decade, reaching 3 kg/year per capita (Ismea 2018). The scientific community has finally managed to make consumers understand the health benefits associated with walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts and pistachios. These belong to the oldest tradition, in the Mediterranean diet and in Asia Minor.

The areas cultivated with nuts have therefore increased in Italy.

Hazelnuts are the leading crop, accounting for 46% of the cultivated areas of nuts in Italy (ISTAT 2016) but are problematic, in its recent intensification, due to the widespread use of agrotoxins that threaten ecosystems and the health of populations, as we have seen.

Almonds, which in turn account for 27% of the crops surveyed by ISTAT in 2016, are showing promising growth. This is a hopeful sign, considering that Italy was the world’s leading producer of almonds until the middle of the last century, before being overtaken by California.

Sicilian almonds vs. Californian almonds, the differences

The differences between Sicilian almonds – such as the almond from Avola (Syracuse) – and Californian almonds are related to three factors. Yield, irrigation, poisons.

A. Yield

Yield is the percentage ratio between the shell and the seed and varies considerably between traditional and modern cultivars. These are often the result of genetic selection aimed precisely at increasing yield, albeit at the expense of quality.

The Avola almond, for example, is kept in a very hard shell that accounts for 80% of the total weight.

In the Californian almond, conversely, the relationships are reversed. Where it is the seed that accounts for 60-80%, and is encased in a soft shell.

B. Irrigation

Intensive production in California relies on the use of huge amounts of irrigation water, up to 4 litres per seed weighing about 1 gram.

Avola almonds , on the other hand, have adapted to the hot, dry climate of Sicily over the centuries. And they grow thanks to rainwater, except for rare rescue irrigations.

Intensive irrigation has an impact on the formation of the shell – which is soft and permeable, with the consequences that follow (mycotoxins) – and on the organoleptic properties of the almonds themselves. It is also not surprising that ‘watered-down’ almonds have lower contents of vitamin E, polyphenols, potassium, magnesium, calcium , etc.

C. Poisons

The third and crucial difference between Sicilian and Californian almonds has to do with the different cultivation methods, which only partly result from climatic conditions.

The immense almond groves in California are systematically treated with huge quantities of fungicides and neonicotinoids. These cause the extermination of more than 50 billion of those same bees that are sacrificed every year amidst the poisons to help pollinate the almond trees.

The exact opposite happens in the almond groves of Avola, to which Sicilian beekeepers take their hives to shelter the bees from the rigours of winter.

Mycotoxins

The forced irrigation of Californian almonds – together with the humid climate, mechanised harvesting and soft shell – have serious consequences for food safety. In fact, the permeability of the soft shell exposes Californian almonds to the risk of fungal contamination and the development of aflatoxins, which are ‘genotoxic and carcinogenic even at low doses‘, as the EU claimed in 2007 when it decided to block imports from the USA.

Unfortunately, however,the European Commission has sacrificed the interests of public health to those of international trade. To the point of deciding to raise the aflatoxin threshold allowed in almonds from 4 to 10 micrograms per kg (μg/kg). 2.5 times as much, although these are genotoxic and carcinogeniccontaminants.

As proof of the serious chemical safetyrisks of the foodstuffs in question, mention should be made of Spain’s recent alert notification in the European Rapid Alert Systemon Food and Feed (RASFF) on 19.11.20. In relation to a consignment of almonds, arriving from the USA, contaminated with aflatoxin B1 at levels 7 times higher than the permitted thresholds (57 μg/kg vs. 8 μg/kg).

The dark side of globalisation

The globalisation of markets has entailed (in the nut category, as in the entire food sector) the globalisation of the exploitation of environmental and human resources. Abominations occur in the very first producing countries, as the recent scandals of child exploitation in the hazelnut groves in Turkey and the genocide of bees among the almond groves in California show.

These ‘globalised’ foods cost less because they are worth less, beyond appearance. They are a disgrace rather than a resource, for ecosystems and populations. And consumers themselves are exposed to even serious food safety risks. But who is willing to bet on their own health, as well as that of local farming communities and the planet itself?

Almonds Made in Sicily, the power of conscious choice

The power of consciouslychoosing to buy authentic Sicilian almonds – perhaps even certified with a public blockchain system according to the Noberasco school, given the recent alleged fraud on fake Sicilian almonds under the Eurospin brand – therefore has its uses. All the better if oriented towards organic products, as always. For the health of the country and the environment, as well as supporting the economy and employment in rural areas that deserve renewed splendour.

Dario Dongo and Corrado Bellia

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